There are a lot of bulbs that will plug in and fit your 2015 Tundra License plate lights, but we went with the biggest and brightest LED bulb we could find to fit. We went with the GTR Lighting 3W CREE LED Projector Bulb. This bulb is commonly known as 194, but also T10. These bulbs are a direct fit to your stock 2015 Tundra license plate bulb, and are at least three times brighter and have a crisp, pure, 6,000K white color. These bulbs really make a noticeable difference. This bulb is perfect since it is directional forward facing; no light is needed around the edges of the bulb.
New 2014+ Tundras have a new fog light housing and a new fog light bulb. These new bulbs are now labeled as H16. Until this fog light housing came out, the bulb style used has never been called an H16. Before this light was released, an H16 bulb looked totally different than this new bulb. The new Tundra fog light bulb is actually more like an H11 bulb. This has caused a lot of confusion when upgrading the new Tundra fog lights.
The problem is all aftermarket LED manufacturers call the 5202 bulb an H16… If you buy an H16 LED bulb from ANYONE, you will not get the right bulb for your Tundra! When picking an LED bulb to replace your stock Toyota Tundra fog light bulb, your best bet is to order an H11. Here’s why:
To make it easy for you, here is a list of LED bulbs that will replace the OEM H16 halogen fog light bulbs in the 2014, 2015 and 2016 Toyota Tundra:
Check out our newest Tundra fog light video for more information.
If you’re looking for a really easy way to upgrade the safety, style, and functionality of your Toyota Tundra, changing the fog light bulbs to LED is a really great way to accomplish that. People upgrade their lights to LED all the time for many different reasons. Either to increase brightness so people can see your vehicle easier, to change the color, to make the style more modern, and for longevity so that your bulbs aren’t burning out all of the time. Starting in 2014, the Toyota Tundra LED fog light bulb products have been updated. Older model bulbs don’t work on these newer trucks.
In order to get the back side of the 2015 Tundra fog light, you have three 10mm bolts to take off. The first two bolts are on the back side of the outer edge of the bumper. These bolts hold the plastic liner in place. The third bolt is down underneath closer to the middle.
(It is possible to reach the housing to change out the bulbs from above, but you first have to remove the headlight housing and reach down from above. You CANNOT remove the entire housing using the top-down method…)
Now that the plastic liner is loose, slide it toward the middle and pry it out. If a plastic bracket falls out, just set it aside for later; this bracket attaches to the backside of the plastic liner so the bolts have something to grip to.
Now with the plastic liner back, you will have easy access to the fog light bulb and the wire connector.
If more room is needed for you to install your fog light bulbs, or you want to replace the 2015 Tundra fog light housings, the housing is easy to remove. Just unscrew the single bolt on the outerside on the housing and the housing will fall free. CLICK HERE to see a full list of halogen and LED fog light bulb products for the 2014, 2015 and 2016 Toyota Tundra!
If you would like to see this process step by step, check out the video below. It also takes you through multiple LED fog light upgrade options.
Lots of people see these new grill replacements for their trucks for sale and on cool truck builds but they don’t really have a good understanding of the logistics of how to install them. You either don’t know at all and won’t buy the product due to uncertainty, or you buy it without thinking how it works and regret it because you can’t figure it out.
There’s a new video out explaining a lot of information about these steel mesh aftermarket grilles for trucks and how to do the install. Here’s the video detailing how to install a Royalty Core grille replacement on a Toyota Tundra using Vision X LED offroad light bars:
The first and most important thing most truck enthusiasts probably don’t know is that you have to cut out the center section of your original grille first, in order to install the new one. On some vehicles that middle section will just pop out and there’s no cutting involved, but most of the time you’re not that lucky!
Once you have the original grille removed and the center section cut out, if you do it properly the new aftermarket steel mesh grille should fit in place. To hold it in place the new grille should come with some type of mounting mechanism. The Royalty Core grilles come with a bolt and anchor type attachment that works really well:
When you get the new grille insert in place then it’s time to install the light bars. Most of the time they will come packaged separately and it’s up to the installer to mount the lights. This is good because the lights add a lot of weight to the product and can make the grille hard to handle.
When the light bars are mounted and aligned to the grille you can re-attach the truck grille to the truck. Now that the grille is heavier than it was at first it’s a good idea to get some help!
With the new grille mounted to the truck and secured using all the factory mounting points it’s time to run power wires to the light bars. The best way to do this is to start with a universal relay harness, wire it to the battery and to a switch inside the vehicle, then safely through the firewall and up onto the hood and finally connected to the new light bars.
Drilling a hole in the dash and mounting a switch; passing wires through the firewall; connecting power wires to the battery; and running power wires up onto the hood all require a fair amount of skilled installation ability. If you don’t understand already how to wire in a relay harness either hire a professional to do it or research the safe methods and learn how to do it yourself. Just be warned that this is definitely considered custom electrical wiring installation.
The way the install was done on this particular truck grille was to use a set of GTR Lighting LED Halo style in-dash switches. These are some of the nicest looking switches around and fit in most spots on the dash.
At the top of this post there’s a video to show all of this information in more detail. It’s about 20 minutes long but really goes in depth on the ins and outs of this type of install. Before you decide which grille to purchase, and if you can handle the job yourself check it out. Or click here to watch the video now.
If you are like most off-road and truck enthusiasts, one of the things you’re probably REALLY interested in is installing LED lighting. This whole market of upgraded lighting has exploded in the last 2 years and everyone is very eager to get their truck’s upgraded as soon as possible! One thing that has become a trend though in the last few months is redneck style roof mounting… You’ve probably seen it done where you live and heck, maybe you’ve done it yourself.
Now, don’t get me wrong – I hate the look, but I can’t blame some people! They buy a 50″ light bar for their truck and it comes with brackets – so you mount it on your truck, right? I believe the secret to successful lighting upgrades is education, so I’m going to show you the right way and the wrong way to install a roof mount light bar on your truck, the biggest trick is getting a hold of a vehicle specific roof mount kit. If you installed your light bar like this, then you did it wrong:
THE WRONG WAY:
When you use the “universal” brackets that come with the light bar and just mount them to the top of your roof skin it LOOKS STUPID! Don’t do it! These “universal” brackets are a cheap way to mount your light bar, and then guess what happens – your truck looks cheap!
Listen, I don’t mean to belittle your manhood because you didn’t know any better, but now you don’t have any excuse. Let me show you the proper way to mount a light bar to your truck, it’s important to find a good vehicle specific light bar bracket kit, or fabricate something that works the same way, the end result should be something like this:
THE RIGHT WAY:
On this Canyon, a set of N-Fab roof mount light bar brackets were used for the install. The first thing you’ll notice is that it looks better than the first set of pictures. Getting the light bar up and off of the roof makes the whole setup look great. Secondly it allows you to position the light bar in a more usable way. Getting the light bar up and away from the roof allows the light bar to not be blocked by the roof skin right in front of it.
Here’s another example on another vehicle of how to properly mount an LED Light bar on the roof of your truck:
Probably the best way to find out which vehicle specific light bar bracket to use is to first contact Headlight Revolution. They know what works and what doesn’t and can definitely get you set up with not only a light bar bracket, but also the right mounting and wiring components to make it all work.
Wiring: When you get the light bar properly mounted to your roof, and all the holes are sealed to become waterproof, it’s time to run your wiring. DO NOT just run the wiring loosely through the door jam. The best way to do this is to drill a new hole in your roof near your roof mount brackets and run the wiring down directly into the cab of the truck. This is the best method because it is the shortest distance for the wire to travel, and it has the least chance of getting smashed in your door jamb.
However, if you’re really not sure how to do the install, you should either be prepared to drill holes in your roof as a learning experience, or hire a local professional install shop to do it for you.
If you need any help with what bracket kit you need for you truck, just ask!